Step 3: Take out the screws to the voltage regulator and remember to keep the nylon insulator washers and grounding screwed together. Then, take out the rectifier and bolt stud from the back of the alternator. Step 4: Get rid of the pulley nut and remove the spacer and fan as well, using the socket. Next, pull the rotor immediately. Altunenator 3.1 – Prevent iTunes from playing the same tracks repeatedly. April 16, 2015 Altunenator ensures that when you’re playing media in iTunes, you don’t hear the same tracks over and over again, day after day. Altunenator 3.1 – Prevent iTunes from playing the same tracks repeatedly. Altunenator Mac AppStore Music. Altunenator ensures that when you’re playing media in iTunes, you don’t hear the same tracks over and over again, day after. Altunenator can automatically, and dynamically, adjust its skip threshold based on the. We also have the 3G High Output Alternator for the 98 & older 7.3 Diesel as well as for other Ford Family vehicles with Gas motors as well. 3G from 1992-1998 and 6G from 1999-2009 Ford 7.3L, 6.0 & 6.4 Powerstroke Diesel 6G type High Output Alternator. The Ford Motorcraft type 3G series heavy duty, high amp alternator is used on many Ford vehicles, below is an incomplete list, please call 1-616-606-5045 to see if your vehicle requires a 3G series heavy duty high amp alternator. 1990-1997 Lincoln Town Car 4.6L, 5.0L; 1990-1999 Ford Taurus, Windstar; Lincoln; Mercury Sable 3.0L, 2.5L, 3.8L.
Do you lack steady voltage or have low-idle output? Supply reliable power to your large audio system or other aftermarket electronic devices with a new high output alternator from US Alternators.
Do you lack steady voltage or have low-idle output? Supply reliable power to your large audio system or other aftermarket electronic devices with a new high output alternator from US Alternators.
Custom Alternators
Your alternator is the heart of your electrical system. Check out our custom alternator options for a product that fits your needs.
PCM Computer Management
Our plug-and-play PCM module safely integrates with your vehicle’s stock PCM regulation to boost charging voltage.
OEM Functionality & Reliability
It’s our goal to provide customers with the best product on the market that will last for years to come. We only offer high performance products that retain OEM functionality and reliability.
Unparalleled Customer Service
Delivering an excellent product and exceptional customer service is at the heart of everything we do. We make it a priority to answer questions and concerns both quickly and honesty.
Revolutionary Technology Advancements
From custom alternators to vehicle specific PCM modules, we use the best and latest technology to advance the industry forward and perfect our products for the customer.
Made for OEM integration on PCM controlled charging systems, our module allows you to set or adjust voltage while maintaining battery light function. It also allows the retrofit of PCM regulators on older cars to dial in the exact voltage desired while still controlling the battery light.
Key Features
- Integrates with vehicle’s stock PCM regulation
- Fixed voltage module set at 14.8V (+/- 0.2V)
- Adjustable voltage range from 12.5-15.5V (+/- 0.2V)
- Voltage+ range from 12.5-16V (+/- 0.2V) / Ford only
- Can support up to (4) alternators
- Maintain stock battery light functionality
- Engineered and made in USA to OEM standards
Large Case - 250a
12v Alternator 3 Terminal Wiring
Details
- 285A PEAK
- 170A HOT @ idle
- 190A COLD @ idle
- 220A HOT @ 2500 alternator RPM
Large Case - 390a
Details
- 410A PEAK
- 120A HOT @ idle
- 140A COLD @ idle
- 240A HOT @ 2500 alternator RPM
Adjustable PCM Module
Details
- Integrates with vehicle’s stock PCM regulation
- Fixed voltage module set at 14.8V (+/- 0.2V)
- Adjustable voltage range from 12.5-15.5V (+/- 0.2V)
- Voltage+ range from 12.5-16V (+/- 0.2V) / Ford only
- Can support up to (4) alternators
- Maintain stock battery light functionality
- Engineered and made in USA to OEM standards
“I highly recommend US Alternators to any serious audiophile. Daniel has displayed the best customer service imaginable. My hairpins are exactly what I was hoping for. They supply my setup with more than enough power.”
“I love my US Alternator. Oblivion integration the stranded light. My 240a is definitely of high build quality. My voltage holds steady under load. Daniel has always been fast to reply with any questions I have and to be honest, I’d never go with any other alt brand.”
“During the whole order process, Daniel kept me very updated about my alt. He responds quickly to all my questions. I’m digging the durable, high-quality parts. I’ll be getting a 2nd alt soon. US Alts is my #1 recommendation!”
“Couldn’t be happier with my 250a US Alt. On my Nendo bc3500 I don’t drop under 13.8v full tilt. I paid a pretty penny to get all the bells and whistles, but it was worth it. I recommend US Alts to anybody. #1 customer service.”
Location
US Alternators LLC
43311 Joy Rd. #184
Canton, MI 48187
43311 Joy Rd. #184
Canton, MI 48187
This article will walk you, step by step, through the testing of the alternator on your 3.1L or 3.4L GM car. No expensive testing equipment is needed, all you need is a multimeter to accomplish this test.
This is an On-Car Test of the alternator that's accomplished in three easy test steps.
To see if this alternator test article covers your specific 3.1L or 3.4L GM vehicle and alternator, you can take a look at the list of applications on the box labeled ‘Applies To:’ on the column on the right and scroll with the prev and next links.
- Symptoms Of A Bad Alternator.
- ALTERNATOR TEST 1: Checking Battery Voltage With Engine Running.
- ALTERNATOR TEST 2: Checking Continuity Of The Battery (+) Circuit.
- ALTERNATOR TEST 3: Checking The Alternator Fuse.
- Related Test Articles.
Symptoms Of A Bad Alternator
The most common symptom of a bad alternator are:
- The most obvious will be that the battery Light will be On in your vehicle's instrument cluster.
- When you turn on the headlights, the glow very dim.
- Your vehicle starts easily with a jump-start, but only runs a few minutes until it stalls.
- Every time you re-charge the battery, the vehicle starts fine, but after the initial trip, it needs to be jump-started.
ALTERNATOR TEST 1: Checking Battery Voltage With Engine Running
Altunenator 3 1/5
You'll need to crank and start the car, so the battery has to be charged enough so that the vehicle will stay running for at least 15 minutes. If possible, charge the battery for at least 45 minutes before attempting the alternator test.
Also, whether you use a digital or an analog multimeter, it doesn't matter. Both will do the job. Alright, the very first thing you need to do is find out how much voltage the alternator is producing.
This is what you'll need to do:
- 1Have your helper start the vehicle. Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode.
- With the red multimeter test lead, touch the battery positive terminal. Now, using the black multimeter test lead, touch the negative battery terminal.
- 3Observe the DC voltage your multimeter is registering. You'll need to know what this voltage is for the next step.
Now, if the alternator is charging, you'll notice that the reading, on your multimeter, will be above 13.5 Volts. If it's not charging, this reading will be around 12 Volts DC. - Now, have your helper turn On the headlights, the A/C (or Heater) on high, windshield wipers, radio, etc. Have him or her turn everything inside that can be possibly be turned on
The idea here is to place an electrical load on the Charging System to see if it can respond and meet the electrical demand. - 5Now, eyeball your multimeter display, after you have turned all those things On.
- After something is turned On, inside the vehicle, and if the alternator is working properly, the multimeter's voltage reading will drop slightly and then stabilize around 13.5 to 14.5 Volts.
Or the multimeter will drop in voltage and continue to drop further the more things get turned On and the longer the vehicle runs. Usually dropping down to 9 Volts or less.
OK, let's interpret your multimeter test results in the next page.
Alternator 1 Wire Vs 3 Wire
Take a look at the following test interpretations to find out which one best fits your multimeter test results:
CASE 1: Your multimeter registered 13.5 to 14.5 Volts from the beginning of the test to the end of the test: This test result let's you know that the alternator is working and charging.
Here's why: One indicator, that the alternator is producing enough electrical power to meet the demand of the vehicle is by producing at least 2 Volts over battery voltage (12.5 Volts). Since your multimeter test has confirmed this.. the alternator is good.
CASE 2: If your multimeter DID NOT register 13.5 to 14.5 Volts from beginning to end and the voltage dropped to 9 Volts DC: This test result let's you know that the alternator is probably bad.
Here's why: An alternator that is not working (producing a charge) will not be able to produce any voltage. So, then the dropping voltage reading you saw on the multimeter is just the battery's voltage potential slowly being drained.
You could stop here and replace the alternator. Around 90% of the time, you would hit the nail right on the head and solve the No Charging Condition. But to be absolutely sure, I suggest doing two more very simple tests. For this first one, Go to ALTERNATOR TEST 2.